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rcw  
#1 Posted : 24 January 2016 15:30:09(UTC)
Rank: Member

Posts: 15
Location: Bradford-on-Avon

The port side saloon window on Minimosh has developed quite a bad leak so I've decided to re-seal it whilst she's laid up.

I've resourced some Sikaflex 295 UV as the sealant and I'm wondering if anyone who has carried out this task has any sage guidance to offer on the following:

1. Best tools and techniques to break the existing seal
2. Cleaning compounds for both the perspex and the cockpit moulding
3. How to ensure an even tension around the window when replaced
4. Required spacing between the window and the cockpit moulding and techniques to achieve it

Any advice gratefully appreciated.

Richard
Seal 28 Minimosh (66)

Marvin Kowalewski  
#2 Posted : 27 January 2016 02:20:33(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member

Posts: 52
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida

Hi

Check out Articles Maintenance...P27,28, Resealing Windows on a P27.

I have over 10 years with no leaks.

Marv Kowalewski
P27 The Happy Seal
Marvin Kowalewski, Ph.D
Jan  
#3 Posted : 28 January 2016 11:39:43(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member

Posts: 143
Location: llandysul, Wales

Hi
Eagle Boat Windows have been very helpful in the past when I was working on my 31 (Muffin).
They are able to supply everything, tools and materials.

Jan Newman

325/32
Blue Moon
Neil Sinclair  
#4 Posted : 01 February 2016 20:32:07(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member

Posts: 93

I found the Sikaflex too aggressive and too messy. I bedded the windows on a gasket, about 2mm thick, that I built up using 25 mm wide self adhesive thin plastic foam tape. I left a gap of about 5 mm all around the edge of the window. Assemble the window onto the foam gasket and fit the screws to the cabin side. Do the screws up finger tight only. Gun around the window to fill the 5 mm gap with silicone sealant and allow to set. Now do up the screws a further turn or two only. I used black foam plastic tape and black sealant, so that the white GRP wouldn't show through the tinted window. I also bought new plastic caps to fit over the screws inside and out - these preserve the original look and also seal the screws.
Neil Sinclair
Seal 28/27
'Andiamo of Exe'
rcw  
#5 Posted : 02 February 2016 00:06:26(UTC)
Rank: Member

Posts: 15
Location: Bradford-on-Avon

Marvin. Jan & Neil,

Thanks very much for your help which is much appreciated.

I think I'm going to take Neil's approach of establishing an even gap using dual sided adhesive foam tape and then to bed the windows on a slightly thicker layer of Sikaflex which I've already purchased. Because the screws seem good I don't plan to replace them at this stage but I'll see if I can get hold of some replacement plastic caps.

I'm expecting the unexpected on this job and will let you know how I get on - I need to wait for a hole in the weather to get started!

Richard
Jan  
#6 Posted : 03 February 2016 09:50:08(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member

Posts: 143
Location: llandysul, Wales

Hi All
I seem to remember that Eagle boats recommend Sikaflex, they would, they supply it. They also say that spacer washers should be used between the cabin side and the window to prevent the layer of Sikaflex being squeezed too thin when the window is secured.

Jan
325/32
Blue Moon
Neil Sinclair  
#7 Posted : 06 February 2016 16:37:25(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member

Posts: 93

The screw caps came from Pro-Dec.com. They are in the USA I remember, so it costs a bit to have them delivered - but they are the original fittings.
Neil Sinclair
Seal 28/27
'Andiamo of Exe'
Mike Edwards  
#8 Posted : 16 June 2018 22:25:33(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member

Posts: 168
Location: Thames Area, Essex

I know this is an old thread now, but I thought I would just mention that I used Sikaflex to re-seal my forehatch perspex and it did not adhere to the perspex when set, water seeped through. I was recommended to use a high modulus exterior silicon sealant.

Mike
Mike Edwards
Seal 28 "Aztec"
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